I’m so excited to share my latest project with you! Sometimes I get an idea about how something should be done and it turns out better than expected. That’s exactly how I feel about this DIY Pet Feeding Station.
When I originally decided to make this project, I planned to build it from scratch. As I priced out the cost of materials, it was going to be over $75 to build. I was so disappointed and just couldn’t see paying that much for something that I was going to make.
Then I had an idea…remember my Thrift Store trip to find candle sticks? If you haven’t read that post, you can find it here. I decided to check out the local Thrift Store to see if there was something I could use. So armed with the dimensions in hand, I headed out. By the way, I’m one of those weird people who carry a tape measure around in their purse. 🙂
You know what? While I was at the thrift store, I found three different options that I could use for this project. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this sooner. In the future, the Thrift Store might be my first stop! I walked out with a $4 toy bin that was exactly what I was looking for. Here is what I came home with…
Here is how it looks today.
I had so much fun making this project and I’m thrilled with the way it turned out! Keep reading for the tutorial…
The price of the toy box was $4. The hinges were around $3 and the lid support was around $2.30. I had just enough 1/2″ MDF left over from a previous project and I picked my color scheme for this project based on what was on my paint shelf. All total the price came in just under $10.
The dimensions of my box are 22 3/4″wide by 15″deep by 12″ tall. I painted the hinges and lid support with Rustoleum Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint.
- The box was already assembled when I brought it home, but I stilled tightened down all of the screws.
- Next, I cut a strip of 1/2 inch MDF to fit the length of the back of the box (21.5″ x 2.25″) and attached it with corner braces or “L” brackets. See picture below. Note: When working with 1/2″ MDF you need to use screws that are less than 1/2″ long or you will drill through the surface on the opposite side of the wood.
- I added a small strip of wood on the back side of the box, underneath the long strip for added support. Also, pictured below.
- Next, I cut the lid out of 1/2 inch MDF. The size of the lid is 12.25″ x 21.5″.
- I flipped the dog bowls over and placed them where I wanted them and traced the circles. Then I measured in about 1/2″ and made another circle. This inside circle would be the guide for my cut. I drilled a large hole on the inside of the inner circle to fit my jigsaw blade. Then using my jigsaw, I cut out both of the holes for the dog bowls.
- I sanded and wiped down all cut edges.
- On the inside of the box, I added a small strip of wood on each side to help support the lid.
- Then I attached the lid with the hinges.
- Finally, I attached the lid support.
- Then I measured and marked lines down the lid at approximately the same size as the hinge support. I used my multimax tool with a wood cutting blade to make grooves, using my lines as a guide. This created a planked board effect on the lid. Lastly, I ran sandpaper through the grooves to widen and smooth them out.
I created this video on my YouTube channel to help you through the process.
All of the products I used in this tutorial I already had on hand from previous projects. You may want to check and see what you have before you buy more paint. You’re basically looking for a dark beige/grey, a black glaze mixture and a light beige for the finish. I love to experiment with paint colors and finishes. Some of the best combinations I have found come from mixing colors and techniques.
- First, I lightly sanded and wiped the box clean.
- Then I primed the box and lid with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 water based primer.
- The main part of the box is painted with Rustoleum’s Chalked Linen White paint. I did two coats.
- For the lid, I started with a base coat of SW Etheral Mood and let it completely dry.
- Next, I made a mixture of half clear mixing glaze and half Rustoleum flat black. I painted the glaze on the lid in a horizontal direction to mimic the way the wood grain would go. Then I wiped it off in the same direction. Let dry.
- Last, select a lighter color beige/gray than your base coat. I used Behr, Toasty Gray.
- Dip the tip of your brush into the paint and dab the paint off on a paper towel. Sporadically make brush marks along the wood in horizontal pattern. Then dry your brush on a paper towel again. Now go back over the whole surface in a zig zag motion with your dry brush. This will really begin to give your finish depth and texture.
- When the paint is dry, add two to three coats of Polycrylic. This step will protect your paint finish from water and scratches.
Note: It is very important that you seal the base coat of chalk paint with Polycrylic or your vinyl stencil will pull up the chalk paint when you try to remove it.
I designed my stencil in Silhouette Design Studio. This design is available for free in my Printables & Cut Files tab in the main menu of my website. When you subscribe, you will be emailed a password for free access.
- First, using black matte vinyl, I cut the image with my Silhouette Cameo.
- Then I weeded out the letters which left me with the stencil above.
- Next I cut the transfer paper to the same size as my image, removed the backing from the transfer paper and pressed it on the front of my vinyl. Then I removed the backing of the vinyl, lined my image up and pressed it on the front of the feeding station. You want to rub the back of the transfer paper firmly with a credit card to ensure the vinyl sticks to the surface of your project. Then slowly remove the transfer paper making sure the vinyl is completely adhered to your project.
- Lastly, I used Annie Sloan Graphite Chalk Paint with a stencil brush to fill in the letters. This paint is similar.
- To protect the finish, cover the painted letters with Polycrylic.
Here is a helpful video for using tranfer paper.
Here is a helpful video on the whole process.
Here’s a few more pictures.
This project solved a couple of problems for me. First, we use to store our dog food in a trash can and whenever company would come over, they would unknowingly put trash in the dog food. Second, our Rumba often bumps in to the water dish and spills the water. Then it takes the bowls for a ride around the room. So, I’m glad to have the problems solved! I hope this tutorial on creating a DIY Pet Feeding Station inspires and helps you with your own project!
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