How To Build A Farmhouse Style Coffee Bar Station For Your Kitchen

Grab your favorite cup of Joe because this week I’m going to help you enjoy it in style! It’s taken me about a week to finish this project and I’m sharing all the details for how I built this farmhouse style coffee bar station below. By the way, if you find the slang term “cup of Joe” interesting, you can read all about where it came from here. Since I’m the queen of idioms, I’ve decided to actually learn where they came from. 🙂

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First up, I tracked down a table that was the right dimensions for my space. My son was using this old sofa table for his Nerf guns in our basement. It was in bad shape and very dated, but had the right dimensions for the space and it was free! I checked the consignment stores and thrift stores and did find a couple of other options. But in the end, I knew this was the right one.

THE TABLE FINISH

This table had a laminate surface, but I knew that after I painted it and added a wood top, it would look good. When painting laminate, you need to prepare your surface well or the paint will scrape off easily. I started by lightly sanding the entire surface with a sanding sponge to rough it up a bit. Then I vacuumed and wiped it down with furniture Krud Kutter to ensure it was clean.

Next, I used Zinsser 1-2-3 Bullseye Primer. It’s important to use primer when painting laminate. It holds to the surface better than paint and will be more durable over time.

Then, I sprayed the table legs with three light coats (the whole can) of chalk paint in white. I prefer Rustoleum Chalked Spray Paint in Linen White. You can use any chalk style paint. If working indoors, purchase the Ultra Matte version and use a 2.5″ Purdy brush.

Finally, I sprayed the piece down with two coats of Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Matte Clear to protect the finish. This seals in the chalk paint. If you prefer, you can use a chalk paint wax, but it is not as durable and will need to be re-coated in the future.

CUT PROJECT PANELS FOR THE TOP AND THE LOWER SHELF

I wanted to give this table a weathered wood appearance. So I purchased two project panels from the home improvement store.

The top panel is a 16″ X 48″ stain grade panel and the shelf is a 12″ X 48 panel. They were already the right size for my table, but I did trim the shelf down to line up with the table legs. Then I used my jig saw to cut notches on the shelf, so it would fit around the table legs.

Next, I light sanded all of the cut edges to make them smooth. Then I wiped the wood clean with a damp rag and let it dry.

STAIN THE WOOD PANELS

It is actually very simple to get the driftwood finish on the wood panels. The first step is to create a wash using a light grey paint. I used a sample of BEHR Ultra Satin Toasty Gray and mixed in water. The container was only about 1/3 full and I added about a tablespoon of water to it. Mix it up and test it on your paint stick. Brush on the wash and then wipe it off with a lint free rag or blue shop towel.

This will give your wood a white looking finish, but the grain will still show through the paint. Let it dry for 30 minutes before moving on to the stain.

For the stain, I used Varathane, classic penetrating wood stain in Early American. You’ll want to wear rubber gloves for the staining process. Dip your blue shop towel in the stain and wipe it on the wood in the direction of the grain. Once the surface is completely covered, go back and wipe the stain off in the direction of the grain. Let it completely dry before handling it again.

Finally, I top coated the panels with Polycrylic in a satin finish. Brush on the poly, then go back and smooth it in the direction of the grain. I added three coats of poly on both shelves. Since this is a beverage station, it’s important to seal and protect the wood well.

TIPS TO BUILD THE SIGN

There are many different ways to build a farmhouse sign. I wanted to reuse a sign that I had previously made. The directions for building the original sign are here. I did love the original sign, but I wanted to use this space for my coffee bar and the sign was the perfect size for the space. Here is the before picture.

I took the old sign apart, refinished it, and added the outer frame from 1 X 3 select pine. The directions for the cup shelf are a little further down in this post.

I built another type of sign here. This sign is also large, but not as tall. It has more of a planked look, but it is an easier build.

If you want to keep your sign super easy, just purchase a 1 X 12 X 4 select pine board. Paint or stain it and add picture hanging hardware to the back.

DOWNLOAD THE IMAGE

Download the Coffee Sign from my free Library. The instructions are at the bottom of this page. I saved it as JPEG, PDF and Silhouette file. I also made an 8.5 X 11 PDF printable.

Because the image is wider than the typical 12 inches, I saved the file in two sections for Silhouette. I also saved it as one large file in the PDF, JPEG and Silhouette version. You will need to use transfer paper to place your image on your painted sign.

If you need more information on how to use your Silhouette to cut vinyl, this is a good tutorial.

PAINT YOUR COFFEE SIGN

Remember to prime and paint your hardboard and stain your wood before you assemble the pieces together. I repainted my hardboard with a custom mixed gray color. I wanted the letters to be charcoal gray instead of black. Then I measured and placed my white vinyl on the gray paint.

Important Tip: Once you press your vinyl in place on the sign, go back over it with your roller and the same gray paint. Off-load the paint on a blue shop towel. When the gray paint is dry, roll on the white in all directions over the letters. This step seals in the letters and will prevent the white from bleeding under the vinyl.

Add your first coat of white paint. Again, offload the paint for your first coat. After the first coat dries, you can paint directly over the image. I ended up using three coats of the white paint/primer in one to completely cover the gray.

REMOVE THE VINYL

Once the paint is dry, you can begin to remove the vinyl. I used the spatula tool from my Silhouette. Holding the spatula parallel to the sign, slip it under one of the edges of the vinyl.

I found this method works better than trying to pick off the vinyl. This vinyl had four coats of paint on it, so it was a little more difficult than usual to place the spatula under the vinyl.

Once you figure it out, removing the vinyl goes quickly. The sign can now be assembled and hung.

CREATE THE CUP HOLDER SHELF

Before I began to assemble the shelf and hooks, I painted and stained the wood to match the table. I also added all of the hooks before I attached the 1 X 6 face plate to the shelf.

If you would like the tutorial for creating these cute inspirational cups, it’s available here. The printables for them are available in my free library.

I had three light switches along the wall and I never liked the way they looked. I’ve been trying to find a way to hide them for some time. After some thought, I decided to make a shelf with a face frame on it, to hide the switches, but leave an open gap at the bottom, so they can still be used.

When the sign was complete, I rehung it in the same spot on the wall. Then I drew a pencil line along the bottom of the sign and took it down off the wall. I held a level up to the pencil line to make sure the line was level and strait.

I used a stud finder to locate and mark the location of the studs in the wall. Then I ripped a board to 1 3/4 inches on my table-saw. Holding the board against the wall, I drilled a hole through the board and into the wall. My drill bit was only long enough to mark a spot on the drywall, so I took the board down and finished drilling into the stud.

Using my Dewalt Driver, I added the screw to the board, so it was just coming out the other side. I lined the screw up with the hole and secured the board to the wall. Now that the board was secure, I drilled the other two holes through the board and into the wall. Then I removed the board again and finished drilling the other two holes. Finally, I secured the board to the wall/studs in all three places.

I added a block on each end of the shelf using my brad nailer from the top down. Then I added a 1 X 6 face frame to the shelf using my 18 gauge brad nailer. Here is a side shot of the shelf.

I was debating whether I needed to screw the 1 X 6 to the shelf because it was holding the cups. After nailing it all along the shelf, I felt like it was very secure and didn’t need the extra screws. If this was a coat rack or something more heavily used, I would have secured it with four screws.

HOW TO DOWNLOAD YOUR PRINTABLES AND CUT FILES

For access to my library of free printables & cut files, just subscribe at the bottom of this page. You’ll receive a welcome letter and regular updates on my blog posts, along with the password to my FREE PRINTABLES AND CUT FILES LIBRARY.

Do you like learning budget friendly ways to spruce up your home? Follow me on PINTEREST. Did you know that you can hover over the images below, click on the red Pinterest circle and save this idea for later? Give it a try below and save these ideas to your DIY Projects or Home Decor boards on Pinterest.

I hope you found some inspiration for your own farmhouse style coffee bar station!

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